| James Booth's Rectilinear
Engine, circa
1843 (castings
by Bruce Engineering) |
United Kingdom - Manufacture date:
2000
Bore =2", Stroke 2", Flywheel diameter
= 9"
Style: Double Acting, Vertical Rectilinear
Engine
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Dimensions: 12" length x 9" width x 11"
height |
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The James Booth Rectilinear Engine |
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Sometimes a Steam Engine is just
simply so different in design that
you have to stop and wonder that
it works at all. Such is the case
with this fascinating James Booth
engine from Bruce Engineering. I've
bought several quality engines from an
elderly fellow, named Bob, who lives in
Washington state. The Double Tangye
and the Williamson Pedestal on this
site are 2 very fine testaments
to his skills. At 82, Bob isn't
afraid to tackle even the most challenging
designs, as long as he can get downstairs
to his beloved machine tools.
Bob recently made the difficult decision
to begin breaking up his unique
collection of handmade engines,
and he contacted me asking if I'd
be interested in acquiring a couple
of his more unusual pieces. |
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As you've probably have guessed
by now, I'm a sucker for unusual steam
engines, and they just don't get
much more so than when Bob has had
a hand in their construction. Some friendly
negotiations were undertaken and
I purchased this engine and the
Curved Cylinder machine shown elsewhere
on this site.
Bob warned me that this project had been a tough one,
not only due to the complexity
of the design, but because of the
aluminum alloy used in the frame
castings. The castings had been
overly soft, causing a significant number
of tool marks to be left on them
as he worked on the engine. He wasn't
fooling. While the engine ran smoothly,
it looked a bit rough, with some
fairly significant cuts in castings.
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Restoration began with removing tool marks |
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Polished Surfaces after Restoration |
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A bottom view of the Crosshead Guides |
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I decided to take the little engine
down and see what could be done
to make things better. I took a
good number of photos before disassembling
the engine, so I'd have a guide
to putting things back together
if things got confusing. ( a hard
learned lesson). The next step was
to determine where it was safe to
remove metal and where the critical
tolerance points were. You can polish
away a quite a bit of metal as long
as you avoid those places where
it would change the critical alignments
within the machine.
Once I was sure
what to leave alone, I took everything
apart and work began to remove the
offending cuts in the castings.
The polishing process began with
coarse emery cloth. From there
the base, all the of castings,
columns, fly wheels and the cross
head guides were put through an ever
finer series of sanding and polishing
steps, culminating with a final
round of MAAS polish to make
things really glow.
I'd become
familiar with how the pieces fit
together, but alignments proved to
be extremely critical. Everything
had to be positioned just
right or friction became a
problem. Several hours of adjustments passed with tweaking
the columns,
the support frames and the pillow
blocks until the effort finally
yielded a smooth running machine The results of the heavy
sanding and polishing were well
worth all of the time and energy
it required. It converted the engine
into a sparkling jewel.
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A view of the New Brick Floor Display |
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I'd already decided this engine was completed when my
wife asked me to accompany her to
a local "artsy crafty"
type of store here in town.
Since the place is not known for
stocking a lot "manly"
things, I was less than thrilled,
although resigned to getting
through the ordeal. We had been
in the store the larger part of
an eternity when we turned onto
a particular aisle.
My mind suddenly
went into overdrive. We're talking
a throttle failure kind of runaway
condition here. There on the shelves
were all kinds of 1" scale
items. Everything from the miniature
real clay bricks shown here to little
tiny lumber, trim and a vast array
of "period" items all
in perfect miniature. It seems The
Doll House hobbyists have a treasure
trove of items which lend themselves
to creating some astoundingly nice
displays for steam engines as well
as dolls. The diorama display possibilities
are mind boggling.
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A hundred dollar
bill later, I had in hand, the bricks,
grout, a hardwood base, 2 styles
of basswood trim, a tiny wooden
toolbox with miniature hand tools,
plus a shovel, pick and a rake for
the Minnie traction engine. I thought
steam engines were an expensive
habit. Those poor doll house addicts really
pay through the nose. Next time
you get the opportunity, wander
through the Doll House hobby
section of your local craft store
and you'll really be surprised at
what you find.
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Some History
on the James Booth Rectilinear Engine The
idea behind the use of the Rectilinear
design appears to have been "miniaturization. The normal configuration
of a standard horizontal steam engine in
1843 required a good deal of space, due
to the use of a connecting rod.
James Booth
wanted to create a
large engine that would still allow for
applications in compact spaces.
The use of "Rectilinear Motion"
(click
here to see an animated demonstration)
allowed him to convert the
linear motion of the cylinder into
rotation to power the flywheels
in a relatively small amount of
space. The result of his work was a
design that was both more complex
than the normal double acting engine,
and one that would have required
much more maintanence to keep it
running. While there are no known
records to indicate that a full
scale engine of this design
was ever built, anecdotal information
from a couple of UK steam lovers indicates
this type engine was used on some of
the early old steam operated fire
wagons in the UK.
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